1 2023 Jewellery Trends - The Battered Black Book

2023 Jewellery Trends

By Anya Cooklin-Lofting

I spend the majority of my free time gazing into jewellery shop windows or scrolling through Instagram accounts dedicated to all that glitters. Between browsing the expressive work of contemporary designer-makers to squinting at velvet-clad plinths in antique jewellery ateliers, there’s hardly time to stop for a spot of lunch. In the world of jewellery, there is always a story to be told, whether it’s the innovative use of materials or a particularly exciting provenance, and that’s why it makes such a thoughtful gift, for loved ones or yourself. 

Trends in jewellery move quickly, and any good jeweller will tell you to buy what you love, and wear it with gusto, despite the trends. However, if you’ve amassed something of a collection, a jewellery trend can act as a prompt of sorts, either to dig out a much-loved piece or to treat yourself to something new. So, read on for the biggest trends for 2023 from some of BBB’s favourite jewellery brands.

Colourful Gemstones 

alice van cal chroma emerald cocktail ring
The Chroma Emerald Cocktail Ring

In a trend that echoes the romance and sentimentality of Victorian acrostic jewellery, which featured gemstones with specific initials to spell words or messages, colourful designs are enjoying a renaissance. From infinity bands set with a rainbow of sapphires in perfect chromatic order to cluster rings of bright stones in perfect chaos, this joyous trend encourages playfulness and self-expression. 

Alice van Cal, the founder of her eponymous jewellery company, has just launched CHROMA, a collection of cocktail rings in pink tourmaline, emerald, garnet and yellow sapphire. Each ring in the radiant collection is inspired by the ancient tradition of colour therapy, inspiring a burst of happiness in its viewer. Van Cal works on the principle that each gemstone holds deep meaning and protective, supportive properties. She advises clients to go with the colour they’re most drawn to, allowing intuition to help in choosing the stone they might need the most.

Stacking & Layering

Rachel Jackson Jewellery
Rachel Jackson London

In another nod towards self-expression, stackable rings and earrings and layer-able necklaces will endure in popularity in 2023. This mix-and-match approach allows you to clash styles, colours and eras for a curation that speaks to your mood, or even just your outfit. There are no hard or fast rules to creating your own stacks and layers, but some of the most beautiful combinations can be achieved when you contrast old and new. 

A one-stop shop for the perfect stackable, layer-able pieces is Rachel Jackson London, where birthstone necklaces can be paired with Art Deco-style alphabet pendants and gemstone chains with gold and pearl charms. 

Organic Shapes

Irena Chmura dewdrop pendant necklace
Irena Chmura Dewdrop Pendant Necklace

For many, the greatest marker of luxury is the evidence of the maker. For those who love organic shapes and perfect imperfection, this trend is for you. The visual signs of a craftsperson’s hand beating or engraving are characterful and charming. Equally, something magical happens when a jeweller takes the natural form of a piece of gold and sets it in a way that enhances its inherent, unadulterated beauty. 

Irena Chmura is an independent designer who does just this. Each piece of jewellery is handmade in a small London studio, while gemstones are set in a small stone-setting workshop in Hatton Garden. The trend for organic, natural forms can be seen in Chmura’s Dewdrop pendant necklaces, each set with a cut gemstone that serves to accentuate the natural textures in the gold drop. 

Ethical Jewellery

Ana Dyla Azra Citrine Earrings
Ana Dyla Azra Citrine Earrings

While it’s true that the importance of ethics shouldn’t come in and out with the trends, it would be remiss to omit the increase in the number of jewellers offering ethical alternatives. Ethical concerns in the jewellery industry could involve the support of artisans and reinvestment into communities all over the world, responsible manufacturing, ethical sourcing, the use of recycled or recyclable materials and environmentally aware shipment. 

One great example of a jeweller taking steps to contribute to a more ethical jewellery industry is Ana Dyla, a company that prides itself on its ethics and sustainability. The company has had B Corp status since 2021 and designs with the environment and its artisans in mind to drive positive change in the jewellery industry. Not only does Ana, the company’s founder, constantly look for new ways to limit the jewellery’s impact on the environment, but also looks at the industry as a whole, right down to the packaging design, which is FSC® labelled.